1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Post information for engine swaps, transmission swaps and anything else that covers engine and driveline information.
duckiller01
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1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby duckiller01 » September 21st, 2005 02:16 PM

I own a clean 1996 Accord EX Wagon (Automatic) but the motor is tired. I want to drop an H22 in it's place but need to know what is needed....

I know I need pedal assy., master cylinder, resivor, hard-line, shifter assy., cables, ECU, axles, and of course motor/ trans.

I have all the above (1992-1996 H22) what things must I buy to complete this swap? I dont want to be stuck looking for shit while I'm in the middle of it all.... what mounts, hoses, and brackets need to be purchased?

Thanks in advance,

I looked and could not find these answers anywhere...

Thanks again,

Rob

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Postby John » September 21st, 2005 10:03 PM

OK, you asked for it. Following is my compilation of my experence swapping in a 1992 JDM h22A into my 1994 Accord wagon. It's long, so I hope the system will allow it all.

My Accord wagon already had a manual, so I didn’t have to worry about the transmission swap. Some things might be different if you are working with different vehicle/engine.

The main thing is that you will need to create a workable wiring harness. If you can find someone who will make this for you, pay for it - its worth at least $400. If you don't, you will have to swap your Accord engine wiring harness to the H22A. Do this while both engines are out of the engine compartment. You'll need to extend several of the connectors, plus add wires for four devices that your Accord doesn't have (IAB, knock sensor, and two VTEC sensors, although an Accord EX will have the later two). This includes passing the wires through the bulkhead to the computer. Plan to spend some time figuring out how to route all the wires around and provide adequate shielding and retention (the H22A and the Accord harnesses are very different - its not a straight swap).

On my 1992 JDM H22A ECU:
VTEC valve solenoid - GRN/WHT to pin A4
VTEC pressure switch - Lt GRN to pin D6, BLK/RED to ground
Knock Sensor - RED/BLU to pin D3, BRN/BLK to ground
Intake Air Bypass (IAB) - PNK to pin A17, BLK/YEL to a hot (12v) source

You also need to reverse pins A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (oxygen sensor heater control) on the ECU. (Note that there is an error in the Accord service manual - the pin locations for these two inputs are reversed from that on another page of the Accord service manual.)

Make sure you swap the retaining clips for the fuel injector connectors from the H22A to the Accord harness - if you don't, it's virtually impossible to remove them again later.

You don't need to swap fuel injectors - use the ones on the H22A.

The Accord A/C unit and Accord A/C bracket work fine. For P/S, nothing really works from a 1993-6 engine. You will save yourself a lot of hassle if you buy a P/S bracket for a 1997 Prelude - your Accord P/S unit will bolt to this nicely (although its a pretty tight fit to run the P/S line over the bigger cylinder head). For alternator, use the H22A bracket - either the H22A or the Accord alternator will work. Also, neither the Accord or the Prelude belts are the right length with this setup. I used 42.7" for the AC/altenator, 41" for the P/S.

You can use the Accord motor mounts, except for the left (driver-side) motor mount. Some people use the Accord mount and drill a hole in the H22A bracket, but the Accord mount is a lot smaller than the Prelude mount, so I don't recommend it. You should use the Prelude mount, but you will have to grind 0.170" off the mount body for it to fit on the Accord. I recommend removing all the 0.170" from the rear of the mount.

If your distributor cap arrives broken (mine did) and you have a JDM H22A with the internal coil, the distributor cap for a 1999 Civic LX is an exact fit (Accord and US Prelude engines used an external coil). If you switch from an external to an internal coil, two of the wires on the Accord external coil connector must be spliced together (the two big wires).

I ordered a Prelude O2 sensor for my swap (the threads on the Accord O2 sensor were stripped). Mistake. The connector is different than the Accord O2 sensor. Thus, if you use an Accord wiring harness, you should stick with the Accord O2 sensor.

The Accord axles and half-shaft from a manual Accord work just fine (I think the automatic axles are the same, but I’m not sure about the half-shaft). Some people use the Prelude axles because they are a little heavier duty, but you must use the Prelude half-shaft if you do this (and the axles still might be slightly off in length).

Accord shift linkage and clutch linkage work fine (the Prelude manual transmission is idential to the Accord manual, except for gear ratios and shift forks).

Note that Honda recommends replacing the gaskets on the fuel line connector and the retaining clips for the driveshafts.

I would recommend getting a genuine ball joint separator, instead of using a fork to remove the ball joints (it's hard to avoid damaging the grease seal with the fork). JC Whitney sells one for about $15.

The heater hose to the thermostat housing must be replaced - the Accord one doesn't fit. Neither does one for the Prelude - you have to buy a 5/8" hose with a 90 degree bend near one end and custom fit it.

You need the lower radiator hose for a Prelude and the upper hose for the Accord.

I’ve never seen anyone else mention this problem, but the return fuel line was 5/16” on my H22A and 1/4" on the Accord - I needed some 5/16" fuel line for fuel injection and an adapter from 5/16" to 1/4" (a good hardware store near me made one for me).

While you have the engine out, you should replace the clutch and timing belt - its a lot easier with the engine out. It's easier to adjust the valves at this time, too.

Vacuum lines weren't a problem for me, but the MAP sensor was. This sensor is mounted on the throttle body on the Accord, but is on the firewall of the H22A (at least for 1994). It didn't come with my H22A engine, so I had to order it along with a mounting bracket and attaching hardware for bracket and vacuum line - ran me over $200.

Throttle cable bracket is a problem. You can move the one on the H22A down so that it is only attached with one bolt and the throttle cable will sort of work, but there is no way to make the cruise control cable work. I bought the Accord SiR throttle bracket hoping it would help, but it didn’t.

The intake from the Accord doesn't fit the H22A throttle body. You'll have to figure something out here. Aftermarket intake is the easy solution, but they are LOUD.

Exhaust is a problem. The engine doesn't come with the downpipe and they are hard to find (unless you want to pay over $400 from the dealer). Even if you get a Prelude downpipe, its too long - it has to be shortened a lot and even then might still be too long. Again, easy solution is probably a header for the Accord, although this is expensive, louder, and still may require some fabrication.

One tip you might want to consider. At the suggestion of a guy I know at Honda who used to race Preludes in ProSolo, I left the belt off the balance shafts. The engine still seems pretty smooth to me, even without the balance shafts rotating. Still idles well and I don't notice it at all on acceleration. Saves about 5 hp.

I tried to swap an Accord 5th gear into a Prelude VTEC tranny (just to keep the noise down crusing down the highway, which I do a lot of). It doesn't work. One of the gears (can't remember if its mainshaft or countershaft) is slightly wider than the Prelude gear. You'd have to have it machined to fit, which I was strongly advised not to do because it would ruin the heat hardening. To make it work, you would have to use 3rd-5th from the Accord. But you wouldn't like the step from the Prelude 2nd to the Accord 3th.

The transmissions are identical except for the gears and shift forks, so you can swap a set of Prelude gears (& forks) into an Accord transmission and it'll work fine. Also note that the Prelude (and the Accord wagon) use a 4.27 final drive ratio, while the Accord coupe/sedan use a 4.07 final drive ratio, so you need to think about that in addition to the 1-5 gear ratios.
1997 Accord EX 5-speed wagon (auto to 5-speed swap)

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Steen-0
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Postby Steen-0 » September 22nd, 2005 03:08 AM

lol i think thats the longest post ive ever seen

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Postby DJJORGE » September 22nd, 2005 09:50 AM

i think this should be put as a sticky.that way other people that need this info could easy finded.and dont have to ask everytime

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Postby Kabuki » September 22nd, 2005 01:36 PM

Jeez John! Been saving that one up? Nice info, thanks!
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Postby John » September 22nd, 2005 10:27 PM

Kabuki wrote:Jeez John! Been saving that one up? Nice info, thanks!


Actually, a couple days ago I came across an old document for a word processing program I don't use anymore. I opened it up and found out I had documented everything I did when I swapped in my H22A 3 1/2 years ago - I just didn't remember I had written it all down. So, when the question came up, I just cleaned it up a bit, copied and pasted.
1997 Accord EX 5-speed wagon (auto to 5-speed swap)

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Postby duckiller01 » September 23rd, 2005 11:14 AM

Thanks for the info. Most of the info given, though good , could be found on many websites... It's great that you have confirmed that this info is legit. The real problem and where my main questions lie are with the Mounts.

Anyone reading these posts that has installed an H22/ 5 Speed combo into a A/T 1994-1997 Accord that remembers the combinations of mounts and brackets needed to sucessfully install the new heart, Please help a brotha out.

Thanks,
Rob

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Postby John » September 23rd, 2005 08:56 PM

duckiller01 wrote:Thanks for the info. Most of the info given, though good , could be found on many websites... It's great that you have confirmed that this info is legit. The real problem and where my main questions lie are with the Mounts.

Anyone reading these posts that has installed an H22/ 5 Speed combo into a A/T 1994-1997 Accord that remembers the combinations of mounts and brackets needed to sucessfully install the new heart, Please help a brotha out.

Thanks,
Rob


My understanding (although I don't have personal experience to back it up) is that the drivers side mount and the front and rear mounts are the same for the automatic and the manual. However, the passenger side mount (transmission mount) is supposed to be unique. You may need to buy a special mount designed for an automatic to manual swap at a place like Hasport.
1997 Accord EX 5-speed wagon (auto to 5-speed swap)

duckiller01
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Postby duckiller01 » September 26th, 2005 11:58 AM

Honda has a different part number for the rear mount and bracket, driver side mount, front mount and trans mount and bracket. I think I've got it... well I'm gonna try anyway.

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Re: 1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby RUDENESS » February 9th, 2008 04:41 PM

the H22 will still continue to be a dream for me......so the JDM F22 it is...

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Re: 1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby Kellen » February 9th, 2008 08:28 PM

damn can someone say resurrection? :lol:
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Re: 1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby edwin28 » February 9th, 2008 11:17 PM

Wow there is some good info there when i ever get a chance to swab mine....... unless i get a K series by then.....
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Re: 1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby John » February 10th, 2008 08:42 PM

Yes, the K-series is a better engine than the H22A. But because of the popularity of the K-series engines, they are a LOT more expensive than the h22A. Harder to swap as well.
1997 Accord EX 5-speed wagon (auto to 5-speed swap)

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Re: 1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby revolver5446 » March 26th, 2008 02:58 AM

I"m getting an H22 swap in my 5th gen wagon! :supz:

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Re: 1996-1997 A/T Accord EX Wagon H22 Swap ??'s

Postby shaiyel » March 26th, 2008 08:52 AM

Wao John that explanation was great, i agree it must be sticky so other fellows that may need that info. Nice :partyman:
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